"Bandit" (2bandit)
09/24/2020 at 12:18 • Filed to: Emma
16
18|
"Bandit" (2bandit)
09/24/2020 at 12:18 • Filed to: Emma | 16
| 18 |
Repost for the day shift: Today I bought a 5.3L LM7 engine out of a 2007 Silverado 1500 Classic today to build and swap into the Trans Am to replace the Pontiac 400 I’ve been running (or usually not running...) for the last 7 years. Got the motor at a local junkyard for what I feel was a good deal, yard seemed well run and they said the motor ran well before it was pulled.
The plan is to keep the engine internals all stock, including the cam and heads, and throw a FiTech ultimate LS setup on. I will keep the 4-speed Super T10 I built last summer and mate it up through a series of stock Chevy parts including a classic big block bellhousing, extended length throwout bearings, and an LS1 clutch/flywheel.
For 193,000 miles these ACDelco plugs don’t look bad, just really old
Peeking into the oil fill port shows a nice and clean rocker assembly.
Pulled the manifolds and exhaust the valves looked good. There were two broken studs on the drivers side, based on the rust they were broken for quite some time and the lack of fastening caused quite the exhaust leak. I fear removing the broken studs is going to super suck
The biggest downside here, and it’s a big downside, is this is the rustiest block I’ve ever seen! This is prior to cleaning anything or wire brushing but look at the flaking! The issue is only one one side of the motor and isolated to where the starter bolts up. It’s mostly cleaned up with a quick wire brushing but wow Michigan kills everything.
CB
> Bandit
09/23/2020 at 23:26 |
|
If only there was some forum post which explained how to get 500 horsepower from an LS for cheap/free.
gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> Bandit
09/23/2020 at 23:29 |
|
That’s some insane scaling. Replacing the exhaust manifolds?
shop-teacher
> Bandit
09/23/2020 at 23:31 |
|
That will be an excellent upgrade. I love that you're keeping the T-10.
|
Bandit
> gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
09/23/2020 at 23:54 |
|
Of course. Likely going to go with some flow tech swap headers, forums say these truck manifolds don’t fit my frame rails anyways.
MKULTRA1982(ConCrustyBrick)
> CB
09/24/2020 at 00:06 |
|
I think there is? Something along the lines of tidy technicians?
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Bandit
09/24/2020 at 00:08 |
|
I salute you.
|
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> CB
09/24/2020 at 00:09 |
|
Lo barrato sale carro.
If I spell it correctly, in Spanish, that saying is that whatever is cheap is always expensive.
|
Bandit
> CB
09/24/2020 at 00:11 |
|
If you have a link I’d be interested, at this point I just want a working baseline before I start changing things. Don’t want to potentially mess something up. Plus the 295 stock hp this motor has is much more than the 170 the TA had from the factory.
|
CB
> Bandit
09/24/2020 at 00:18 |
|
|
Bandit
> shop-teacher
09/24/2020 at 00:21 |
|
Thanks! I put so much effort (and cost) into that swap it’d be silly to get rid of the parts now
lone_liberal
> Bandit
09/24/2020 at 00:44 |
|
Nice! Since it has that many miles have you thought about doing a compression test just to make sure everything is sealing? I suppose it would be a little hard to do it until you get in the car, though.
diplodicus forgot his password
> Bandit
09/24/2020 at 06:32 |
|
Well I guess it's safe to say the engine didn't leak much oil with rust like that on the block.
My bird IS the word
> Bandit
09/24/2020 at 07:34 |
|
What are you going to do with the shaker? Fab something, or fix it to the hood?
|
Bandit
> My bird IS the word
09/24/2020 at 07:43 |
|
Fab something, if I could figure out a way to make it the primary intake that’d be neat but probably difficult. This is why I saved your post a while back on motor mount installation!
Urambo Tauro
> Bandit
09/24/2020 at 07:48 |
|
Ooh I like where this is going!
|
My bird IS the word
> Bandit
09/24/2020 at 08:09 |
|
Ugh. If you use the factory method prepare for suffering.
I’m glad you are keeping the shaker. Even if it is just bolted to a bracket, it bothers me so much when they rivet it to the hood. The shaker itself is very easy to open up- I installed a flap kit (j ust the flap, not the solenoid) and it opens under vacuum well, but the fitment and return spring is not quite what I would like.
NYankee1927
> Bandit
09/24/2020 at 12:10 |
|
“ they said the motor ran well before it was pulled.”
Would they ever say anything different?
John Norris (AngryDrifter)
> Bandit
09/24/2020 at 21:17 |
|
For th e broken studs a good soaking of PB blaster for a week and a proper drill /easy out set up should work just fine. Suggest you find a way to practice with a fresh drill bit on a similar bolt wedged into something before you go at the broken studs in the head. And then get another fresh drill bit. Also suggest you get the motor positioned so the area is really flat and there is no question about what is straight for drilling into the broken studs.